Living in New Zealand: Alps2Ocean on an Ordinary Bike: Day 1: Lake Tekapo to Twizel
As a middle-aged woman on a non-mountain bike, I thought that the Alps to ocean bike trail might be too tough for me. It's advertised as an easy to intermediate off road trail, but my bicycle is designed more for on road. Before I went on the trip I had my bike serviced and changed the 700×28 tyres for 700×32 ones. But there were quite a few guys on their mountain bikes who looked at my bike doubtfully. I’m happy to say that I did the whole trail without having to walk sections of it and I didn't fall off. So I think most bikes could manage it and also most cyclists.
I began the Alps2Ocean at the alternative starting point of Lake Tekapo. I didn't want to waste fossil fuel helicoptering in to Aoraki/Mount Cook and you still see it a lot on the first day.
We took my bike down from Lyttelton on the back of Gertie the 1975 Land Rover
Lake Tekapo without the hordes of tourists you usually see around Church of the Good Shepherd
Lake Tekapo always used to be a terrible place to stop with an overpriced tiny supermarket and mediocre bars and restaurants. But now there is a little more choice and though the supermarket is still slightly overpriced it has a good selection as it is much bigger. We had beer at Mackenzies, which looks fancy but was actually cheaper than Our Dog Friday. ODF did an amazing variety of burgers. Fish burgers weren’t available so I went with the vegan Pardoner burger. I’m glad I did as it was really different, tasty and something that would’ve taken me a long time to prepare at home, for only $16.
The beautiful Mackenzie Country (without irrigation)
My bike. A specialized sirrus dating mostly to 2003 with a 2008 frame. The panniers were for wet and cold weather gear, tools, spare tyres, an Anne Tyler book, lots of food, water and a flask of Lady Grey tea. The essentials for day biking.
A lot of the first day’s cycling from Lake Tekapo is along the canals. This would be boring, but for the views of the mountains including Aoraki/Mount Cook.
There are salmon farms in the canals and a lot of guys try their luck, but I didn’t see anyone catch anything.
The best part of the day’s ride was the narrow bicycle track around Lake Pukaki. Good going and interesting terrain with amazing views of the lake and mountains. I had my picnic lunch by the shore, in the shade under the trees as it was really hot - 27 degrees C (March is the most popular time to do the trail).
Lake Pukaki at about 38 km from Tekapo
It was lovely to be off road going through the dry grass land of the Mackenzie through Pukai flats. There was very little road cycling to worry about on day one and the going was easy, particularly as there was no wind and the sun was on my back. Like most of the trail, it merits taking a packed lunch as there aren’t many options for stopping off except at the salmon farm shop.
A good trail through dry scrub and wilding pines
Because of weather forecast we gave up the idea of camping at Lake Poaka and stayed at the Twizel campground in a cabin for $72.
Time in saddle: four hours. Left at 9:30, arrived at 3 pm so stopped a lot.
New Zealand Garden Diary: What to Cook When You Have a Lot of Kale
My submission for Lyttelton's Harbour Kitchen cookbook uses something I have in the garden all year around (and store cupboard ingredients). Don't you love kale?
Quick Kale and Cashew Stir Fry
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Ingredients (per person)
Small handful of kale
One serving of noodles
Small handful of salted cashews
Dash of soy sauce
Dash of sweet soy sauce (kecap manis) or sweet chilli sauce
Dash of sesame oil and enough sunflower oil to coat pan
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Method
If you want the recipe to be vegetarian, wash the kale. Then drain, pat dry and remove the big central ribs before cutting it finely.
Boil noodles until done, drain and set-aside.
Get the oils hot in a pan and stir fry kale until it all turns dark green, throw in cashew nuts and warm through for one minute.
Add cooked noodles and soy sauces/sweet chili sauce, stir through and serve.
Living in New Zealand: Dog Friendly Mini Break in Peel Forest
It's handy to have friends with holiday homes. We spent a weekend in one in Peel Forest. Our friends have a lovely big dog called Fred who tolerated Molly very well. Molly made herself quite at home.
Because there is a lot of agriculture in the area, you can't swim in the rivers. It's a shame as there is a beautiful river walk in Geraldine, but even the dogs aren't supposed to drink the water.
Geraldine river walk
At least there are a lot of dog friendly walks and Molly and Fred had a great time. Well, Molly did for sure.
The best part of the trip was going to see friends of our friends who have built a house in the woods. There is a QEII covenant on the land and we walked through a forest with lots of old native trees (checking trap lines that had caught hedgehogs and a feral cat). It was beautiful and Molly preferred it to swimming in the river
Molly, me, Fred and a kahikatea
Homebound puppy was exhausted
Living in New Zealand: Mini Break to the Hurunui With Off Leash Puppy
We have friends with a bach in the Hurunui in the high country of Canterbury, New Zealand and we joined them there for a weekend.
Molly loved being off leash
My other half went fly fishing but I had a lot more fun swimming in the deep water pools. It is fairly safe to do this in the high country as there is not so much run-off from agriculture, particularly as there are no dairy farms there.
Molly learned to swim across the river, which she preferred to old rickety bridges. She taunted her new friend, Marlowe, who was not that keen to get wet.
It was a fantastic weekend…
…but it’s always good to head home.